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If you onlyvisit your favorite greenhouse inApril or early May there are several annuals that you probably did not even notice. These are heat-loving plants that bloom profusely when the mercury climbs when many cool season flowers like pansies and lobelia are petering out. These annuals can be depended on to give bright color until frost.

The first is probably the best known. Lantana is a tropical sub-shrub. When we lived in Florida, it was a hedge outside my office, but here it is an annual. Breeders have refined the habit and broadened the color range. There are mounding and spreading forms in shades of yellow, pink, red, purple and orange. The flower clusters often have more than one color per cluster. They are also nectar-heavy making them a favorite for butterflies and hummingbirds. Another distinctive feature is the fragrant foliage. When rubbed between my fingers, it reminds me of citrus. Because of the oils in the foliage, it also repels mosquitoes and other bothersome pests.

It is drought tolerant and thrives in full sun with little supplemental irrigation once established. Good for pots, baskets or the front to middle of flower beds.

Summer snapdragons, or angelonia is a great upright annual with flowers in spikes. It comes in white, pink, blueish and purple. This plant was first introduced about 20 years ago and made a great home cut flower. Since then breeders shrunk it down to be more of a bedding plant at the expense of taller sturdier stems. In the last few years more vigorous varieties with larger flowers have come on the market making it suitable for cutting once again. Flowers have good vase life and make excellent mid-tall components in containers or beds.

Pentas or butterfly flower is another tropical with nectar-laden tubular cluster of flowers sure to attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your garden. These plants reach 18-30” depending on the variety and are great additions to a sunny perennial border to add some color between seasons. Bold red, bright pink, lavender or white flowers mix well with most color schemes.

For the shade, begonias can’t be beat. A new series of  Begonia boliviensis has really impressed me the last two summers. ‘Bossa Nova’ begonias have large bell-shaped flowers in shades of red, yellow, orange and blush-white. This plant has an upright then arching habit, making it a nice component in baskets or containers. I have some white ones in a container on my front porch mixed with white torenia and purple foliage Persian shield and alternanthera. The contrast is nice for my shady porch. This series is related to the orange ‘Bonfire’ begonia that we have been growing for several years. They can be brought indoors over the winter and kept for next season.

All of these plants do best planted well after the last frost is past. We have noticed they really don’t seem to grow until temperatures are in the 70s and 80s so it is best to wait on planting them.

If your baskets need a little sprucing up, or your perennial border is between seasons, try some of these heat-lovers for a pop of color that will bloom through the worst the summer has to throw at them.

Photo above: Begonia boliviensis 'Bossa Nova Orange'

The monarchs are back. A few days ago I found eggs on some of the milkweed around the farm, but I saw the first adult on Tuesday.

Most of our butterflies like swallowtails and fritillaries overwinter here hidden as pupae in leaf litter and emerge in the spring ready to start their life cycle again.

 Monarchs, on the other hand, have the monumental task of flying some 3000 miles each fall from the Eastern US and Canada down to the Sierra Madre mountains in Mexico. There they roost in Oyamel Fir trees where the humidity and temperature are high enough to prevent them from drying out and freezing. Luckily the Mexican government realized the importance of this habit and set aside over 200 square miles in 1986 as a Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve to prevent logging and habit destruction in this crucial area.

In March they start the long trek back north. They fly 50-100 miles a day and roost in evergreen trees each night eventually making their way back to where the started the previous fall. These butterflies have exhausted their fat reserves and only have enough stamina left to mate and lay their eggs.

Just as the Oyamel fir trees are so crucial to their life cycle in Mexico, milkweed is here. The monarchs sole food source for the caterpillar portion of their life cycle is the milkweed plant. There are four main species of milkweed, and all are native and acceptable to these beautiful creatures. Common milkweed, Asclepias syriacus, is what grows in farm fields. Its large leaves provide ample food for growing caterpillars. It spreads by rhizomes quickly making large colonies. Common milkweed has large sweet-smelling lavender flowers. In the fall, it distinctive seed pods crack open spilling downy winged seeds. We have a lot of it on the farm left over from when this portion of the ground was more meadow. Butterfly weed, Asclepias tuberosa, is shorter with thinner leaves and orange flowers. It grows best in dry or garden soils. Swamp milkweed, Asclepias incarnata, prefers more damp soil, but can also grow in garden soils. Swamp milkweed has either purple or white flowers. The tropical milkweed, Asclepias curassavica, is an annual in this area, but a perennial further south in Texas and Florida. It grows quickly and provides a large amount of leaf material to feed the monarchs. Tropical milkweed has red and orange bicolor clusters of flowers. This one is grown quite commonly by school butterfly gardens and was what my family used last summer when we reared monarchs indoors.

The adults lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves. While many insects lay their eggs in clusters, monarchs only lay 1-3 eggs per plant to ensure adequate food for their offspring. Eggs hatch after four days, the caterpillars eat for two weeks, shedding their skin as they grow several times. After the final molting, they attach to a leaf, twig or other protected place, form themselves into a “J” shape and create the green chrysalis with a distinctive gold band. This is where the metamorphosis into a butterfly occurs. It is temperature dependent, but usually takes 8-10 days. The day before they hatch the chrysalis appears black. The butterfly emerges, to sip nectar, mate, lay their eggs and start the next generation. Three generations occur in Pennsylvannia. The fourth generation is hatched in September or early October and begins the migration again.

What can you do? Plant milkweed for the caterpillars and nectar-containing plants for the adults like asters, coneflowers, monarda, zinnias, phlox, sunflowers and Joe Pye weed. I can’t wait to watch them again this summer.

The irises are blooming in my garden. I can’t think of a more stately, hardy member of the spring garden than irises. Joining peonies as some of the longest-lived perennials, irises are some of the easiest to grow plants. The genus is named for the Greek goddess of the rainbow- and not surprisingly come in as many colors. There are several types of irises in cultivation that will each grow well in different conditions, thus ensuring there is an iris for every garden.

The earliest to bloom are Iris cristata, or crested iris. These small, low growing, native irises bloom in shades of lavender, blue or white in April. This group performs well in a shady woodland garden, or a rock garden. They spread by rhizomes and will slowly form a low mat groundcover. They pair nicely with tiarella, woodland phlox and ferns.

The next to bloom are the tall bearded irises. Iris germanica, commonly called “flags” are native to the Mediterranean region of Europe. They have been in cultivations hundreds of years and are available in thousands of cultivars in every color of the rainbow. They have distinctive flowers characterized by 3 down-ward facing petals called “falls” and three upright petals called “standards”. The “beard” down the central fall is often a contrasting color. This group of iris thrives in full sun and well drained soil. They are best planted in the fall for the following spring bloom, or in the spring. When planting, keep the large fleshy rhizomes partially exposed aboveground. Divide clumps every few years in early summer after they finish blooming to promote best flowering.

Be on the lookout for iris borer- an insect that can cause quite a bit of havoc. The adult moth lays her eggs in the fall. The eggs hatch in the spring and the worm-like larvae enters the leaves by chewing a small hole. From there the larvae burrows down the leaves leaving trails that look like leaf-miner damage. It reaches the rhizome, and eats the fleshy tissue leaving your plant open to disease like soft rot that can destroy the plant. Once ready to pupate, it leaves the iris and matures in the soil to emerge as moth and start the process over again. They best way to combat this pest is to clean up iris foliage in the fall preventing the adults from laying eggs on dead foliage. Spray a preventative pyrethrin on newly emerging iris foliage, and once finished blooming, lift the rhizomes and inspect for damage. Cut away and dispose of infected material. This sounds drastic, but I’ve had iris in my yard for 12 years and only had trouble with iris borers one summer.

The next to bloom- usually in time with the Oriental Poppies, are the Siberian iris. Unlike the bearded iris, they do not form fleshy rhizomes, or have such large flowers but are very striking in my opinion. The grass-like foliage is attractive even when the flowers are finished. Though not as many cultivars are available, some of my favorites are the bright blue of ‘Caesar’s Brothers’ and the deep purple of ‘Ruffled Velvet’. This group grows well in a sunny perennial border with average soil. They will also tolerate boggy soil. They are extremely hardy and will grow from northern Minnesota down to Georgia. Divide clumps every few years after bloom.

The next groups to bloom are the water iris- our native Louisiana iris and European Iris pseudocorus commonly called “yellow flag”. These irises grow well along ponds and streams. Their flat flowers are brightly colored and are adapted to sunny, moist locations. They don’t have to be submerged but do demand more moisture than bearded irises.

The last group to bloom which usually takes us into June are the Japanese iris, Iris ensata. This striking group has exceptionally large flat flowers and often fully double rows of petals. This group has a strange requirement for moist soils over the summer growing season, but prefer to be more dry over the winter. In my garden, I just grow them in the perennial bed, and throw a little extra water on them during periods of drought. Some intrepid gardeners keep them in pots submerged in small ponds then move the pots out of the water over the winter. This group is not as well know as some of the others, but worth a try. Many of the pink or dark purple bicolors are gorgeous.

Look around as you are out and about over the next few week, the irises are blooming and they are always a sight to behold. Just remember to keep one eye on the road.

The irises are blooming in my garden. I can’t think of a more stately, hardy member of the spring garden than irises. Joining peonies as some of the longest-lived perennials, irises are some of the easiest to grow plants. The genus is named for the Greek goddess of the rainbow- and not surprisingly come in as many colors. There are several types of irises in cultivation that will each grow well in different conditions, thus ensuring there is an iris for every garden.

The earliest to bloom are Iris cristata, or crested iris. These small, low growing, native irises bloom in shades of lavender, blue or white in April. This group performs well in a shady woodland garden, or a rock garden. They spread by rhizomes and will slowly form a low mat groundcover. They pair nicely with tiarella, woodland phlox and ferns.

The next to bloom are the tall bearded irises. Iris germanica, commonly called “flags” are native to the Mediterranean region of Europe. They have been in cultivations hundreds of years and are available in thousands of cultivars in every color of the rainbow. They have distinctive flowers characterized by 3 down-ward facing petals called “falls” and three upright petals called “standards”. The “beard” down the central fall is often a contrasting color. This group of iris thrives in full sun and well drained soil. They are best planted in the fall for the following spring bloom, or in the spring. When planting, keep the large fleshy rhizomes partially exposed aboveground. Divide clumps every few years in early summer after they finish blooming to promote best flowering.

Be on the lookout for iris borer- an insect that can cause quite a bit of havoc. The adult moth lays her eggs in the fall. The eggs hatch in the spring and the worm-like larvae enters the leaves by chewing a small hole. From there the larvae burrows down the leaves leaving trails that look like leaf-miner damage. It reaches the rhizome, and eats the fleshy tissue leaving your plant open to disease like soft rot that can destroy the plant. Once ready to pupate, it leaves the iris and matures in the soil to emerge as moth and start the process over again. They best way to combat this pest is to clean up iris foliage in the fall preventing the adults from laying eggs on dead foliage. Spray a preventative pyrethrin on newly emerging iris foliage, and once finished blooming, lift the rhizomes and inspect for damage. Cut away and dispose of infected material. This sounds drastic, but I’ve had iris in my yard for 12 years and only had trouble with iris borers one summer.

The next to bloom- usually in time with the Oriental Poppies, are the Siberian iris. Unlike the bearded iris, they do not form fleshy rhizomes, or have such large flowers but are very striking in my opinion. The grass-like foliage is attractive even when the flowers are finished. Though not as many cultivars are available, some of my favorites are the bright blue of ‘Caesar’s Brothers’ and the deep purple of ‘Ruffled Velvet’. This group grows well in a sunny perennial border with average soil. They will also tolerate boggy soil. They are extremely hardy and will grow from northern Minnesota down to Georgia. Divide clumps every few years after bloom.

The next groups to bloom are the water iris- our native Louisiana iris and European Iris pseudocorus commonly called “yellow flag”. These irises grow well along ponds and streams. Their flat flowers are brightly colored and are adapted to sunny, moist locations. They don’t have to be submerged but do demand more moisture than bearded irises.

The last group to bloom which usually takes us into June are the Japanese iris, Iris ensata. This striking group has exceptionally large flat flowers and often fully double rows of petals. This group has a strange requirement for moist soils over the summer growing season, but prefer to be more dry over the winter. In my garden, I just grow them in the perennial bed, and throw a little extra water on them during periods of drought. Some intrepid gardeners keep them in pots submerged in small ponds then move the pots out of the water over the winter. This group is not as well know as some of the others, but worth a try. Many of the pink or dark purple bicolors are gorgeous.

Look around as you are out and about over the next few week, the irises are blooming and they are always a sight to behold. Just remember to keep one eye on the road.

The weather has finally broken and Mother’s Day is behind us. I don’t even want to speculate on how many plants and flowers were purchased in the last week around the country, but chances are good if you are a mother, or have one, you bought or received some recently.

A goodly number of these were in already-planted hanging baskets or planters, or are destined to be. Plants in a container have different needs than those in the ground. In the ground, roots can reach deeply for water, and access nutrients being broken down by microbes in the soil. In a pot, where roots are contained and the soil is usually a peat and bark based soil-less mix, it is a whole another story.

To best keep baskets and containers looking their best for the rest of the summer you will need a few things- 1. Water. 2. Fertilizer 3. Clippers or a sharp fingernail.

Water. Some people advocate those water holding crystals. I am not one of those people. If you are, don’t hold it against me. I think it is a lot easier to add water than to take it away in a rainy year. Put your finger in the soil and measure the dampness. If it feels wet and the plants don’t look wilted, leave it. If the soil is wet and the plants look wilted, DEFINITELY leave it. In the hottest part of the day, often plants will wilt slightly to prevent water loss and adding more does not help. Lift the basket just after you water it, and lift it again later.It should feel much lighter before you water again. You may only need to water every few days this time of year and daily as the plants get larger and the temperature gets hotter. Fertilizer. Most potting soil does not contain the nutrients plants need. These nutrients must be added back in either in the form of a time release or liquid feed for the plants to grow, blossom and perform well. Time release is just what it sounds like. The prills release a little bit over time. The fertilizer is temperature and moisture dependent however and releases faster at warmer temperatures. In most greenhouses, plants are fertilized with liquid feed at low levels every watering. You can either do that or give them a burst of blue water weekly to feed them. Some plants need extra minor nutrients like iron. Specifically petunias, calibrachoas and some of the other newer annuals benefit from a fertilizer containing iron. Clippers. Even if plants say they don’t require deadheading, they do. Spent flowers look messy and can be a harbor for disease spores like botrytis or gray mold. Also many baskets will require a haircut in mid summer. Sweet potato vines that got out of balance with the rest of the plants or verbena that starts to looks straggly benefit greatly from a trim. This will help the plant to bush out closer to the base and produce more flowers. Don’t be afraid of the clippers.

All those beautiful flowers purchased last weekend can look beautiful for the rest of the summer. Just give them those three things and they will perform well for you.