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False hydrangea vine 'Moonlight' 10 years of growth

on my deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So you want a climbing vine to cover a fence, pergola or up lattice decking. Using the vertical space in the garden is a great idea to add visual interest. There are several questions to consider first.

1.How strong is your support structure? Perennial and shrubby vines are heavy over time. If you have ever looked at the base of mature clematis, honeysuckle vine or climbing hydrangea they are woody. The weight of a heavy vine may pull down a simple lattice-work structure.

2.What is your light exposure? Most vines do well in at least 4-6 hours of sun. Without adequate sunlight, flowering is reduced.

3.Are you trying to attract pollinators, have a fragrance, or bloom in a specific season?

With those questions in mind let’s talk choices. Perennial/shrubby vines come back every year getting larger each season. Some pruning is required if they are growing larger or spreading farther than anticipated. Most do not bloom all summer.
One of my favorites is Carolina Jessamine or Gelsimium. It is an evergreen vine with bright yellow flowers. It blooms in the early spring. I am happy to see flowers in March, but for those hoping to enjoy flowers on the patio in the summer; it is not a good choice. Wisteria, is a fragrant purple beauty about this time of year, but the Asian one is a bit of a thug. Our native is better behaved- but still woody over time. Honeysuckle with its beautiful red or orange flowers is a hummingbird magnet and sweetly fragrant, but can be troubled by aphids. I have a lovely false hydrangea vine on my deck that has been there about 10 years. It has gorgeous large white flowers that attract a ton of pollinators, but with a mature height of 50 feet, it needs a severe haircut this summer after it blooms or I won’t be able to get to the washline any longer. Climbing roses are a perennial fragrant favorite, but pruning and spraying for disease are required to keep them healthy.

Vines for shade are tricky. Hydrangea vine will flower well, clematis will tolerate light shade but will flower better with at least a few hours of sun. Porcelain vine and hardy kiwi have beautiful foliage and don’t flower much to begin with but are harder to find. A quick Google search also suggested Boston Ivy. I don’t second that opinion. Removing ivy is nigh impossible and roots along the stems can bore into structures worse than just about anything else.

Vines for pollinators are much easier to suggest. One of my favorites is Mexican flame vine. It is quick growing with orange daisy-like flowers. Butterflies really like it. Mom’s favorite annual vine to attract hummingbirds is cypress vine. It is a member of the morning glory family with really fine foliage and red tubular flowers. Another great one is Spanish flag. It’s also in the morning glory family and blooms under short days, meaning that it won’t flower until late summer, but I think it’s worth it. The flowers are multicolored tubular clusters of red, yellow and orange. It’s a stunner and the hummingbirds love it. I plant it on my deck ever summer.

Moon vine blooms in the evenings to attract moths. The large white blossoms unfurl in the late afternoon and are gone by the next morning. If you use your patio or pergola a lot in the evenings, this is a great choice.

For something weird, try hyacinth bean- this quick growing vine sports pretty lavender flowers followed by long purple pods. I’m seeing it around more often as it is easy to start from seed.

Flowering vines are great way to add height and drama to a landscape, or soften a fence, but know what you are getting yourself in for.

This column was prompted by a rather unexpected request made to my wife at the Solanco Fair. The suggestion was to write about what is happening or growing in the farmer's fields during the year. Here's an effort from a long time observer, not an expert.

Corn, soybeans and hay, mostly alfalfa, are the chief area crops.

If you have seen yellowing or browning grass fields recently they are or soon will become cornfields. The grass was planted as an erosion control, to add organic matter to the soil, weed control and to shade the soil to hold moisture. Real farmers may smile or laugh at the last reasons.

At this date most corn should be planted but, I suspect that the cool, damp spring has caused delay. Researchers will tell us that delay beyond the first week of May will reduce yields.

Most corn grown here is used for animal feed, often on the farm where it was grown. In early September, many acres of corn are cut, stalk and all, and put into silos, a bulk feed for cattle. The rest of the corn is harvested for grain, usually in October or early November.

Soybean plantings have increased in this area over the years. They are planted immediately after the corn is in. Although soybeans are a component of cattle feed, most are sold as a cash crop.

Alfalfa is the dominant hay crop with newer varieties yielding up to four or five cuttings per year. First cutting would be about now. The first cutting will give the largest volume, but is often a bit less choice hay.

In the fall or very early spring, if you see a finely tilled field, it is most likely destined to become an alfalfa field. Alfalfa is a perennial crop that can be harvested three or more years after planting.

Much hay remains on the farm to be fed, but there is an active market of selling hay to horse farmers.

You will see a declining acreage of small grains: wheat, barley, oats and rye. Often, the straw used as livestock bedding is more valuable than the grain.

The area's chief cash crop historically is tobacco. For obvious reasons, this acreage has declined significantly. Tobacco is started from transplants in late May or early June and cut and dried beginning in late July or August.

With the decline of tobacco as a cash crop, farmers, especially those with smaller acreage, have searched for new cash crops.
One that has caught hold is the growing of pumpkins for the Halloween market. Small acreage is devoted to growing produce for individual summer farm stands.

There is also an increase in high tunnels- hoop houses covered with plastic that can be rolled up on the sides. These are primarily for tomatoes or delicate berry crops like raspberries. Farmers can plant earlier under plastic, and the fruit is protected from excessive rains.

The arrival of a local produce auction also has increased the outlet for larger fields of vegetables. Most commonly seen are cabbage, sweet corn, cauliflower and broccoli.

I am amazed that I just wrote that, but then again, I was shocked to see a dog on a leash about six miles from Quarryville about fifteen years ago. I guess our demographics are changing.

The azaleas are blooming. The rhododendrons aren’t far behind.

Evergreen plants that bloom are a rarity in the plant world, so these two staples of the spring garden have a favored place for foundation plantings.

Both azaleas and rhododendrons are members of the Rhododendron genus- the distinction usually having to do with specific number of flower parts. For our purposes, rhododendrons usually have wider leaves and bloom a bit later. Azaleas have smaller leaves. There are also a number of deciduous azaleas that bloom in shades of yellows, oranges and pinks and have nice fall color.

Azaleas and rhododendrons are often thought of as shade-loving plants. That can be true- morning sun with afternoon protection after 1pm is the best. Dappled shade where tree branches are limbed up to allow sunlight to penetrate also is a good choice. Deep shade will prevent heavy blooming.

Acidic, well draining soil is best for azaleas and rhododendrons. They have shallow roots, so soils that stay wet leads to root disease problems. Blueberries, pieris, and mountain laurels share similar soil requirements. The best ways to amend soil is to mix in pine bark or leaf compost. Peat is not a great choice as it tends to hold excess moisture. Lowering the pH with agricultural sulfur or iron sulfate may be necessary in soils with high pH. If you have struggled with blueberries or azaleas in the past- a soil test is recommended before planting.

Wind is the biggest challenge to azaleas and rhododendrons. Their evergreen leaves will dry and scorch in high winds. Try to site them near a building, on a slope, or where other shrubs can protect them from drying south and westerly winds.

Pruning azaleas and rhododendrons is best done after bloom. Soft pinching of the growing tips encourages branching of the lower stems. Pruning in the fall cuts off the developing spring flower buds. In general, not much pruning should be necessary.

One of the easiest rhododendrons to grow is the Catawba rhododendron. Native to the Mid-South Eastern US, it blooms in the spring with large lavender flowers and is very cold hardy. There are many named hybrids involving several different species that bloom in a rainbow of colors from pale yellow, red and deep purples. Some of these fancier ones do better in the Pacific Northwest than they do in our summer heat and humidity, but if you have a good spot they are worth a try.

In terms of insects, the biggest problem is the azalea lace bug. They feed on the undersides of the leaves in the summer and early fall and can permanently discolor the leaves. I hate those little buggers. As mentioned earlier, root diseases like pythium and phytophera can be a problem if soils stay too wet.

Keep your eye out for azaleas and rhododendrons this spring. There is little more magnificent sight than a large swath of these blooming evergreens.

Photo credit Winterthur Garden Blog

The last few weeks we’ve had a lot of questions about GMO and organic vegetables and flowering plants. First a few definitions.

In chemistry- “organic” is anything containing the elements carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.

In the farming/gardening vernacular it means eliminating conventional pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. It does not mean eliminating ALL pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers, because there are many that are still allowed. The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) publishes a list of thousands of organic-approved materials that can be used in farming and still be considered organic. Pyrethrin is widely used as an organic insecticide. Acetic acid, or super-strong vinegar, kills weeds. Organic farming methods don’t condone synthetic fertilizers like Miracle Grow, but favor fish emulsions or manure compost.

To be “Certified Organic” there are regulatory agencies that check your farming practices and monitors for conventional product residue. This is why often on organic farms you see the “No Spray” signs along the roadside alerting road crews not to treat with herbicides.

A colleague of mine operates an OMRI certified organic greenhouse business . He laments the fact that the organic-approved chemicals available for him to use for pest control are broad-spectrum, meaning they killbeneficialbugs as well as the bad ones. He stated thatconventional, modern insecticides are more targeted to the specific pests.

For me the big question has always been is organic “better”? There have been no studies demonstrating organically grown produce shows any difference in nutritional value compared to conventionally grown crops. The advantage of organic produce lies not in the presence of something better, but in the absence of certain “non-organic” pesticides. Shouldall produce, conventionally or organic, be washed before being eaten?YES. Organic farming methods are generally more labor intensive, with lower yield, therefore organic produce usually costs more.

Now on to the hairier topic. Genetically Modified Organisms or (GMOs) emerged in the late 1980s as a breakthrough for agriculture and genetic research. They lost the public relations war, and with a scary sounding name, never really gained the full backing of the public.

First of all, what is a GMO? How are they made? Tiny pieces of DNA from one organism (plant, bacteria or animal) are inserted into the DNA of another unrelated organism using a specialized method in a laboratory. The new gene becomes part of the plant or animal and is inherited by their offspring from then on, just like hair color. Popular genes for transferring to plants are virus resistance (in papaya and squash), increased levels of vitamin A (in rice to prevent blindness in malnourished areas of the world), resistance to insects (Bt corn, cotton), or specific herbicide resistance (Roundup-ready corn, etc.) The benefits of this technology include less chemicals are required to spray on the fields as the plants can defend themselves better, and often have higher yields.

The downsides are the seeds are more expensive because of regulatory and development costs. Also seeds cannot be saved from year to year. This is really a moot point, as in the days of hybrid crops, seed is rarely saved.

What needs to be understood is that all plants-especially all food cropshave been genetically manipulated for thousands of years of selective breeding to increase yield, flavor and disease and insect resistance. Early adopters of GMO technology just looked at this as another tool in the toolbox of feeding the world’s ever-expanding population with less land and effort.

The first GMO crop in the mid 1990s was the FlavrSavr tomato, which had a gene that prevented it from oversoftening and spoiling. The goal was to allow the tomatoes to ripen on the vine to improve flavor, but still hold up in shipping and reduce spoilage. After tremendous public outcry, they were pulled from the market soon after.

If you are visiting a garden center this spring, you can be sure thatnone of the flowers or vegetable starts you are purchasing are GMO. There are no GMO flowers or tomato plants, or any other vegetable plants available for home gardeners. As mentioned above, the millions of dollars of regulatory costs do not make it worth it to breeders. Advertising specifically as non-GMO is a little disingenuous as there aren’t any in the first place. It would be like me saying my farm is dinosaur-free.

I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion surrounding these two terms. I hope I didn’t let my bias slip too much.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Asking me what my favorite plant is, is like asking a mother which child is her favorite. There is one versatile genus that contains many outstanding plants that are on my list.

Salvia, or sage, is a member of the mint family. Mints are easily recognizable by their square stems and scented foliage. There are over 1000 species of salvia, some are ornamental, some are herbs, and some are just weeds. Some have pleasant scents, some not so much, but all have an odor. If they do flower, the flowers are tubular and borne on slender stems. In this area, some salvias are hardy perennials, some are tender annuals, and some are reseeding annuals.

Of the perennials, the most well known are the nemorosa types, like ‘May Night’ with their dark purple, or blue flowers. They bloom in the spring and continue on well into the summer with a little bit of deadheading. The lilac sage (Verticillata types) have larger fuzzy leaves and light purple flowers. Both of these are good for bees.

While most salvias thrive in the sun, there are even some that do well in the shade garden. Japanese yellow sage (Salivia koyamae)is a woodland perennial groundcover reaching one to two feet with yellow flowers.

There are several border-line hardy types. Autumn sage, (Gregii types) generally have red or pink flowers and are hummingbird magnets. Despite its name, it blooms through the summer and fall. They prefer dry soils and reach 2-3 feet. Black-and-Blue sage (Guaranitica hybrids) gets taller, to 4ft, and tolerates more damp soils. It’s best known for its brilliant blue flowers and dark, almost black stems. It also is a prime choice to attract hummingbirds.

Annual salvias are staples of the garden center and are generally started from seed. The reds of the scarlet sage (Splendens types) with names like Sizzler, Salsa or Red Queen are commonly found in market packs or small pots. Also popular are blood sage or Texas sage (Coccinea type). Most commonly found in red, pink or white, these flowers are a little more delicate and refined than the splendens types, but don’t let that fool you- they are extremely drought tolerant and will reseed from year to year given half a chance. Mealy cup sage (Farinacea types), with its lovely powdery blue flowers and soft velvety leaves is another very popular annual. ‘Victoria Blue’ is one of its commonly found cultivars. The coccinea and farinacea types are native to the Southern US, but are not reliably hardy this far north.

Mexican bush sage,Salvia leucantha,is one of the most spectacular of the sages in my opinion. It only blooms

under short days, so you wait all summer for the show, but it is worth it. The foliage is silvery gray and reaches three feet. The flowers and stems are also very fuzzy, but a brilliant hot pinky-purple. Unfortunately it doesn’t make it through the winter.

Salvias also cross breed without a lot of extreme measures. There are some new very interesting cultivars that are propagated from cuttings that won’t reseed that are worth a try. ‘Wendy’s Wish’, was a spontaneous garden hybrid ofSalvia mexicanadiscovered by Wendy Smith in Australia. She named it ‘Wendy’s Wish’ as she has designated that part of the proceeds from the royalties go to the Make-A-Wish foundation. It has shiny dark green foliage with extra large hot pink flowers and mauve bracts. It is really stunning. ‘Love and Wishes’ is a darker purple cousin which also benefits Make-A-Wish

I can’t end this article without mentioning the edible ones. Without garden sage (Salvia officinalis)Thanksgiving stuffing would never be the same. Most common is the silvery foliage, but the purple foliage and tricolor variegated selections are also tasty. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans)truly smells like ripe pineapples. Brew the leaves for teas, chop some for mixing with fruit salads or if you are really brave, mince some for garnish on pizza.

Try a new salvia this summer. You can’t go wrong with so many choices.

 

 

Photos:- Top Mixed basket with Black and Blue salvia, red- coccinea type and Angelonia.  Middle- Salvia leucantha (Mexican Bush) and bottom left  'Wendy's Wish'. All taken by Kris Barry- GPF.