My enthusiasm for a southern shrub that has crept into our landscapes in the last two decades is rising rapidly.Crape myrtles have moved from my try it list to a recommended mainstay if you are looking for a long lasting summer blooming shrub.
I planted my first crape myrtle maybe 30 years ago on a southern slope. It most likely was a southern cultivar being sold by a northern nursery. Each winter it died back to the ground, but returned with new shoots each spring and yielded beautiful pink blooms by midsummer. It never got more than two or three feet tall.
Becoming knowledgeable of the breeding work being done, I tried some of the more hardy varieties.Starting about 15 years ago, I have planted more than 20 plants. None have been added in the last five years. The largest of the full sized varieties are now over 10 feet tall and wide. The dwarfs now would not fit into a bushel basket.
With the exception of two I sited incorrectly and removed, all the full sized plants are thriving. I lost several of the smallest dwarfs in the first few years.
Culturally, they like light but aren’t fond of wind. With our mild winter and the sunny dry spell of June and early July, they are putting on a show the likes of which I have never seen. Plainly stated, they bloom on new wood based on light accumulation.
I am fascinated by a group of dwarfs planted along both sides of steps going down to my patio. The steps are on the east side of my house, thus falling into shade in the waning hours of the afternoon. One side is maybe 10 feet from the house and the other is fifteen. For the first time ever, the ones closest to the house are heavily budded but are at least four days behind the ones on the other side. The other side is at least a week behind a nearby plant that never falls into the shade of the house.
My advice is still the same. If you wish to plant crape myrtles this fall, now is the time. Give them plenty of time to get acclimated. Otherwise, wait for spring. Let the ground freeze and then mulch lightly. Pay attention to light and wind.
In a normal or colder winter you may experience some tip damage. Be patient as they are very slow to leaf out in the spring. I would wait until late May to remove any winter damaged twigs. By then my guess is that you will a have very little to remove. You get flowers on new wood so it is difficult to mess up unless you insist on snipping in June and July.
I’m sure the dwarfs are not quite as tough as the full sized ones, but they have improved. With the full sized ones I would stick to multi-stemmed bushes rather than trying to duplicate the single stemmed small trees you find in the south. The temptation is there, though. It has been written and sung that for everything there is a season. This year crape myrtles have delivered everything a season could offer.